POLYMAKERPETG Filament 1.75mm 1kg Black 3D Printer Filament, PolyLite PETG 3D Printing Filament 1.75mm, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03mm, Print with Most 3D Printers

Edit after more prints:If you slow your printer speed down to 50mm/s, 1mm retraction, 250C, it works amazingly!That was the change I made on my Prusa Core One. I think if it prints too quickly there isn’t enough time for the just laid filament to dry before the next layer which is what causes it to melt back onto the nozzle. That and Slice Engineering’s non stick paint helped a load!Original:The orange is not enjoyable to print with at all.I’ve tried multiple settings and nozzles yet this filament still creates build up on the nozzle and strings wildly. I’ve dried this spool down to 12% and lower yet I still have these issues. I personally wouldn’t recommend this filament. I will be sticking with Overture PETG or Voxel PETG. Their filament works amazing every time.

I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with.Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing.PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results.Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCKBed: G10When printing on Glass I raise 5cCura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7).4 brass nozzle.2 layer height.4 line width1.2 wall thickness2 Top Surface Skin LayersMonotonic Top/Bottom UncheckedSkin in Z Gaps UncheckedIroning Unchecked40% infillConnect Infill Lines UncheckedTemp 235Build Plate 80Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108%Print Speed 40mm/sMy Titan Extruder Retraction settingsEnable RetractionRetract at Layer change CheckedRetraction Distance .8Retraction Speed 45mm/sRetract before outer wall CheckedLimit Support Retractions UncheckedEnable Print cooling UNCHECKED <----------With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin.For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer...1. Your bed is level2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls).5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture.6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry.Happy Printing!

PolyMaker filament is so incredibly good in every way that I've stopped using other brands completely. Clogs are a non-issue, their filament comes very dry from the factory, and the print quality is amazing. This PETG also strings less than other PETG's, I've noticed. Very good value for around $20-25 per kilogram, I highly recommend it

Date of review: 9-15-24THESE ARE TWO SEPARATE REVIEWS.I am writing another review of Polymaker PETG.What is going on at Polymaker??Now it's the RED PETG! And this was the replacement roll.*see photos*What you see is the red and what happened, and the roll alongside the build plate that was used. The printer photo is my Q1 Pro with a competitor's roll. Same gcode. Different results. MUCH BETTER RESULTS.When I got the Polymaker red, It stayed sealed until I dried it last night., Overnight at 50°C.I bought roll after roll of Polymaker PLA for months with excellent results. And now I have tried black, red & white petg and it's garbage.I can't open every single roll the day I get it just to insure it's quality stuff.Now it's past the return period and I'm stuck with this garbage and 14 parts behind my production schedule. 😡I just want quality stuff. Polymaker is supposed to be quality.I hope someone from Polymaker sees this but I doubt it.Date of review: 6-12-24.For some reason Amazon thinks this is white filament but it's black!I've been using Polymaker brand filament for quite awhile now. AND for a long time I've gotten great results but it seems like since Oct of 2023 the quality has went downhill. Had an issue with tangling on some red PETG I tried to use, (WHICH TO THEIR CREDIT) was replaced but I just an issue with some black filament I bought late last year that cost me over 5 hours on a job.Between prints I store all my Polymaker filament in the bag it comes in with some desiccant packs. It stays in the bag and in the box until I'm ready to dry it before printing.The photos you see are from:1. A roll I purchased late last year and then stored as above.2. After pulling the roll, it got dried at 60degC overnight. That's always worked!Somewhere in that roll there were really BAD SPOTS. Bad adhesion and Lord knows what else. This lack of quality cost me more than $47 in time and material!I know it's well past the window to return for return or refund but if anyone at Polymaker reads this PLEASE get in touch with me. You guys do a great job of fixing issues with your filament and I'd really like this fixed.Thanks.Steve C.

No issues printing with this filament on either the Bambu X1C or H2D. Little to no stringing. Great quality and value.